Restaurant review: Walt Reilly’s
Published 11:45 am Wednesday, October 6, 2021
- The fried chicken and waffles with chipotle honey at Walt Reilly's.
Walt Reilly’s has been called a family center, but it’s actually equal parts restaurant, bar, indoor sports facility and entertainment destination. Go with friends, have a fun time with kids, watch sports, or just let the kids play while the adults enjoy craft cocktails, top-shelf alcohol and food that is not the afterthought it is at many sports bars.
Walt Reilly’s name comes from its owners. “Walt” was owner Paul Gerber’s father. A small bronze bust of Walt is located in the restaurant — see if you can find it. The “Reilly” comes from Tim Kerns’ Granny Reilly. That personal touch is evident in the vibe of Walt Reilly’s, warm despite its high-ceilinged industrial space. The 1980s theme and color scheme is reminiscent of an old bowling alley.
The back of the 11,000-square-foot ex-warehouse is devoted to indoor sports. There is a miniature, nine-hole miniature golf course with small greens that are the perfect place to play with the kids when winter comes.
Three state-of-the-art golf screens have tilting tees that simulate rough and bunkers for a challenging, realistic experience. At the other end of the building is a batting cage. A video screen depicts a pitcher throwing the ball that flies out of a hole in the wall. Many different pitches and speeds are available. Groups can play as teams against each other and change the pitches. Ten pitches are $7, or a group can rent by the hour for $60 on weekdays or $80 an hour Friday through Sunday.
A music stage rounds out the entertainment aspect of Walt Reilly’s. The stage can be blocked off from other areas, and video of the band can display on a wall behind the stage for those watching from the restaurant.
Gerber told me that Walt Reilly’s is in the “eatertainment” space. While he and Kerns wanted a place for families to have fun, they wanted the food to be exceptional. Gerber described that he wanted the bartender to educate customers on different kinds of scotch, whiskey and other drinks. The bar also has some of the best craft cocktails I’ve tried. The Stinger is a refreshing mix of spicy vodka and Blood Orange San Pellegrino, with a small pepper floating on top. It’s served in a retro, rounded martini glass. The Transfusion has ginger and lemon with a grape juice ice cube that adds sweetness as it melts.
The bar, with its mid-century aqua, velvet barrel stools, is separated from the restaurant dining area. A roll-up garage door opens to the bar and restaurant. A large fire pit and heaters keep outdoor dining comfortable on cool days.
My friends met me for Sunday brunch on my first visit. Although it wasn’t too busy when we arrived, the server forgot our requests for sauce on the side and didn’t bring an order of hash browns. (Note that these are not grated hash browns, but actual breakfast potatoes.)
A second server said she had noticed the requests on the ticket. We had to ask twice for water.
My friend had the blackened mahi-mahi Benedict. A small, thin English muffin was base to the fish that would have benefited from more blackening spices to add dimension and pop. Topped with a poached egg, the Benedict was covered in a light lemony hollandaise. Ted Swigert, who owns Drake and Washington Kitchen and Cocktails, consulted on the food for Walt Reilly’s. As both restaurants make great kale salads, we chose a side Bandon Dunes Berry Salad. A lightly sour citrus dressing brightened fresh blackberries and strawberries on tender kale. Toasting the hazelnuts brought out their nutty goodness, with all of it balanced by crumbled goat cheese.
My other friend ordered the breakfast burrito with bacon, shredded white cheddar, caramelized onion and very little egg. It was probably my own fault that the burrito was dry, as it usually comes with roasted peppers, and I asked they be kept on the side due to a green pepper allergy.
The breakfast hit was the fried chicken and waffles with chipotle honey. These are not thick Belgian waffles. They are small, dimpled and the right balance of light and crispy topped with a lightly-breaded, double-fried juicy chicken breast. A scoop of honey butter had melted on top. While I’d assumed I would prefer maple syrup, the chipotle honey was perfect. A bit of heat with the sweetness worked with the savory-sweet breakfast. It was definitely something I would order again.
Chipotle honey is also used in the Brussels sprouts appetizer for dinner on my second visit. Adding the optional bacon made this dish perfection, the bacon giving bursts of flavor to the crispy Brussels. It’s one of the best Brussels sprouts dishes in town.
The rest of the meal was a disappointment. I had The Walt burger, and my friend chose the Burger Dog. While the toppings were fresh and good, the burger preparation was dry and rather tasteless.
The burger dog may have been invented in San Francisco in 1950, but it is currently trending. Hamburger meat is shaped like a hot dog with hot dog toppings — relish, mustard, onions, ketchup, and American cheese on a hot dog roll. The original burger dog mixes ground chuck with the burger meat. Good meat would make this a fun, tasty meal.
When reviewing restaurants, I typically wait a few months after they open to allow them time to work out the kinks in food and service. Walt Reilly’s needed a little more time with a few menu items. Still, the sign of a good restaurant is a management that will listen to its customers (including me) and make changes. I told the server and the manager that I didn’t care for the burger meat.
Since our first visit, the restaurant has changed how the hamburger and burger dog are made. On my return visit, “Big Walt” had two burger patties, dill pickles, Tillamook White Cheddar, bibb lettuce and sliced onion piled on a Sparrow Bakery bun that was spread with Dijon aioli. What had been a dry, relatively tasteless burger is now cooked on the grill, and juicy.
Later I was passing by and stopped in for the Olympic Club Cobb salad. Lighter than the typical Cobb, it had only medium-boiled eggs, avocado, bacon and blue cheese on romaine lettuce. Rather than ranch, it had a house-made green goddess with herbs dressing that was like a party in my mouth.
This time, I had to taste the unique soft-serve dessert. The Double Bogey adds bourbon caramel and applewood smoked bacon. The sweet and salty/savory worked, and it checked all the boxes for sinful flavor.
Whether you go to meet friends for a cocktail or to play fun games with the family, Walt Reilly’s is a welcome addition to Central Oregon’s entertainment community. Go for the fun or go for the food — you won’t be disappointed.
What: Walt Reilly’s
Where: 225 SW Century Drive, Bend
Hours: 3-10 p.m. Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
Contact: waltreillys.com or 541-546-0511