Takeout reviews: Latin cuisine
Published 5:00 am Thursday, April 16, 2020
- Jibarito sandwich from Barrio uses plantains instead of bread.
When we think of Latin cuisine, tacos, enchiladas and burritos often come to mind. Here in Central Oregon, we have some great restaurants with a Latin influence that go beyond the typical Mexican food fare.
Of course, if you have a yearning for some basic south-of-the-border food, we also have a large selection of Mexican restaurants that are open during the coronavirus-shutdown. Some of these restaurants include El Sancho, El Caporal on 27th and in Sunriver, El Rancho Grande, Diego’s Spirited Kitchen in Redmond, the Mazatlan restaurants, La Rosa in Northwest Crossing, Los Jalapeños and Rancho Viejo in Sisters.
This week’s restaurants are not your typical Mexican eateries (although you can get a typical Mexican meal as well). The Latin-inspired cuisine hails from South America, Spain, Cuba and coastal Mexico.
Baltazar’s
(1455 SW Knoll Ave., Bend)
Technically, Baltazar’s is a Mexican restaurant. Chef/Owner Baltazar Chavez grew up in Mazatlan. Mazatlan is a coastal city where his father was a fisherman. Naturally, at home, the meals centered more around the fresh catch than tacos, burritos and such. Baltazar imports his seafood with an eye to the best quality available. Baltazar uses shrimp from Mazatlan that is an 8-to-10 shrimp count per pound. Halibut and large scallops are brought in from Alaska.
Baltazar’s is serving the full menu for pickup, plus, there is a special each night of two meals for two people for $46. The specials are listed on Baltazar Chavez’s personal Facebook profile, or you can call the restaurant. The night I ordered, the special was a Seafood Chimichanga and Enchiladas de Camaron (shrimp).
Typically a chimichanga is a flour tortilla burrito that is crispy deep-fried. Baltazar’s chimichanga is a puffy lightly-fried version filled with a generous portion of shrimp, crab and large, juicy scallops. It’s lightly topped with a seafood sauce and jack cheese. and garnished with sour cream and guacamole. It is served with rice and refried black beans.
The Enchiladas de Camaron might be common at Mexican restaurants. Still, there was little that was run-of-the-mill with these enchiladas. Flavorful shrimp is sauteed with onions and tomatoes then rolled up in two flour tortillas. The enchiladas are then topped with seafood sauce, jack cheese, sour cream, avocado slices, and come with rice and refried black beans on the side.
Hola!
(680 SW Powerhouse Drive, Bend; 920 NW Bond St., Bend; 2670 U.S. Highway 20, Bend)
Hola! is both a Mexican and Peruvian restaurant. Described as Nouveau Mexican, there are tacos, enchiladas, and other typical Mexican dishes that are prepared in unique ways. I ordered the Ahi Chili Relleno. A roasted mild pasilla pepper is stuffed with roasted corn and Mexican cheese with light red chile de arbol salsa that adds a touch of spice. It’s topped with creamy cheese sauce and pico de gallo. The cheese plays against the sauce, pepper and rare tuna for flavorful bites. It is served with rice and black beans.
From the Peruvian side, I ordered the Costillitas de Puerco con Ajà Amarillo. These are baby back ribs, but it’s no ordinary barbecue sauce. The sweet and sour ají-amarillo (yellow pepper). The barbecue sauce is tangy and slightly spicy. The ribs are served with causa (a Peruvian infused key lime cold potato cake) and mashed (also cold) Peruvian purple potatoes.
To have the full Mexican restaurant experience, we started with the Guacamole Fresca and a red cactus margarita. While you can get Hola’s Mexican Beer, Tranquilo, you’ll have to add your own tequila to the margarita mix.
Barrio
(915 NW Wall St., Bend)
The Latin-influenced Barrio has a restaurant downtown and a food truck at the On Tap lot on the Eastside. Barrio is known for its paella, a rice dish that originated in the Valencia region of Spain. Paella means “frying pan” in Valencian.
During the shutdown, Barrio is offering a family meal with Paella, or 12 tacos. It includes a side dish, a salad and churros and chocolate for dessert. It’s a good deal as the whole meal runs $60 and feeds 4 people.
I ordered the small chorizo and chicken paella for two. The chorizo adds a touch of spice to the tomato and red pepper-flavored, perfectly-cooked Spanish rice.
For our second dish, I chose the Jibarito “sandwich” with pork. Originally created by Puerto Rican immigrants at a restaurant in Chicago, a Jibarito is made with large, flattened, fried green plantains (of the banana family) instead of bread. At Barrio, the pork is piled between the plantain slices, with a Central American cabbage relish (“curtido), red Colorado sauce, guacamole and lime. The flavors are balanced and dance with sweet, sour, and savory. It’s served with a generous fresh salad.
For dessert, I couldn’t resist the churros with chocolate caramel sauce. The churros are fresh made, doughnut-like and covered in cinnamon-sugar. The dark chocolate sauce wasn’t too rich and a great complement to the churros.
Cuban Kitchen
(133 SW Century Drive, Bend)
Continuing with food from the Caribbean region, we had food delivered from the Cuban Kitchen. The small westside restaurant had closed for a couple weeks but is now open for takeout, and for delivery through DoorDash.
The days and hours are limited. It’s open Wednesday through Friday 11-8, and Saturday 12-8.
While there are several “press” sandwiches, we decided on a favorite —the Puerco Asado (pulled pork). A traditional Cuban dish, the pork is marinated in tasty tropical spice and mojo juice. It is then slow-cooked and topped with sautéed onion. I chose a side of Moro rice (black beans and white rice cooked together with onions and garlic) and maduros (sweet plantains). The plate is a wonderful party of flavors from the tangy pork to the garlic, savory Moro Rice that works in harmony with the sweet plantains.
Next time you feel like some Mexican food, you might want to mix it up and try one of these unique Latin influenced restaurants.