Almost two years ago, GoodLife Brewing Company, best known for its hoppy ales and IPAs, introduced Bavarian Lager to its year-round draft lineup. The brewery originally intended for this beer to be draft only, but the pandemic necessitated changes, and over the summer, GoodLife began packaging it in 12-oz cans.

Most people would assume a beer based on a German-style pale lager to be a pilsner, but Bavarian Lager is instead a close cousin — Helles lager. The brewery recently provided me with samples, and with the cans reaching a larger market, it seemed like a good time to delve into this style and find out what differentiates it from pils.

While a name like Helles might seem ideal for Halloween, in actuality “helles” is German for “bright,” referring to the clarity and pale color of the style. Helles was created in 1894 by the Spaten Brewery in Munich to compete with the increasingly popular pilsner style which originated in Bohemia 50 years prior. Spaten adapted the style to accommodate the local tastes, which favored the softer, maltier dark lagers that evolved in Munich.

Helles lager, like other pale lagers, is all about subtlety and balance. To casual (and even experienced) drinkers it may be indistinguishable from a pilsner, but there are several key differences. Pilsner emphasizes hop character and bitterness and a dry, crisp finish; Helles focuses on the malts, with rounder, sweeter malt flavors and more body while dialing back on the hops.

Or to put it another way (though with less nuance), pilsner is crisp and hoppy, and Helles is sweet and grainy.

I reached out to GoodLife head brewer Tyler West to learn more about why the company chose this style and his approach to brewing it.

“It really comes down to what we like to drink,” he said via email. “We brew beers that we enjoy to imbibe, and that is exactly why we chose to brew a Helles. It is also a very delicate style, so this presents a challenge to us.”

The brewery follows a classic recipe for the lager, though with a Northwest twist. “We actually use an American grown Magnum (hop) for our bittering,” said West. “Our growers have found the best environment they can to grow this traditional German varietal known as Hallertau Magnum. It has a very clean and vibrant bitterness, (which) is controlled by how much we use.”

German pilsner and Munich malts make up the grain bill, and Hersbrucker Spät hops are also used.

Drinkability is the key behind Bavarian Lager. It pours crystal clear, pale gold color with lively carbonation. The aroma presents a lightly sweet graininess that’s reminiscent of cracked wheat bread crust or scones. There’s a subtle, spicy hop note if you look for it.

The flavor is light and malty with an impression of grainy sweetness that’s smooth and rounded. There’s just enough hop bitterness to bring a balance to the cereal sweet body, and there’s a whisper of herbal spiciness, though overall the beer emphasizes the malt. The medium-light body has an impression of robustness even as it finishes dry.

Traditional Munich bierhalls serve Helles by the liter, and with the appealing drinkability GoodLife’s version brings, it’s easy to see why. Though you won’t find liter-sized cans — they’re standard 12 ounces — with 5% alcohol by volume and 22 IBUs, Bavarian Lager is sessionable and satisfying.

It’s also a labor of love for the brewery. As a lager, it takes two to three times as long to brew as a typical batch of ale. GoodLife also employs a different strain of yeast and developed a process for brewing that supported its equipment.

“We can fill a tank full of Sweet As, and have it empty in 12 or 13 days, allowing for that tank to be used again in the two-week turnaround,” West said. “Typical tank time for Bavarian Lager is 5 to 6 weeks.”

Pick up a six-pack, or enjoy a pint at the brewery, and you can taste the result of that time and effort.

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