For a beef lover, going to a steakhouse for a juicy cut of USDA-graded meat is one of the joys of dining at a restaurant. All of our local steakhouses initially closed during the coronavirus shutdown. But as weeks and months passed, a few of these restaurants reopened for takeout. By the end of this week, all of Central Oregon’s steakhouses will be open for dine-in and take out.

Most of these restaurants are offering limited menus or may have limited availability of some items. Still, your favorite cuts of beef are now being served at popular restaurants from Prineville to Tumalo.

During the shutdown, I initially cooked steaks from Bos Taurus and Kayo’s Dinner House in my own kitchen. Tumalo (Feed Company) Steakhouse opened for takeout and was eventually joined by Barney Prine’s and Brickhouse for dine-in. Pine Tavern then opened in mid-May, and Blacksmith opens June 19. All these restaurants will offer takeout options.

Despite news that COVID-19 has hit some meat processing plants causing shortages, all of the local steakhouses have been able to get the beef they need. Still, strict coronavirus regulations are taking a toll on the quantity and quality of meat available.

Social distancing requirements in meat processing plants means there are fewer workers. Jeff Porad, owner of the Brickhouse restaurants in Redmond and Bend, explained that processing plants are working at about 35% of capacity. The reduction of output has an affect on the quality of beef that comes out of the plants. For a cut of meat to be graded USDA Prime, it must be a young animal with fat marbling throughout. Under normal circumstances, less than 3% of beef in the U.S. receives this highest grade. As the plants can’t take the cattle fast enough, the animals are staying out to pasture or feedlots. As they get older, the beef may be downgraded to a Choice cut.

Brickhouse in RedmondSo far, Brickhouse hasn’t had any issues getting their usual prime cuts. The all-natural beef is raised with no hormones and comes to them from northwestern Washington. The meat quality was apparent in the mouthwatering 17-ounce rib-eye that I ordered to go. Tender, not too fatty, and finely seasoned, the steak didn’t require any sauces or toppings. Firm and creamy mashed potatoes, asparagus and tender carrots accompanied the meat.

If steak isn’t your thing, Brickhouse has added several Italian entrees to the menu since reopening. We ordered the fresh ravioli with bolognese (also available with spinach alfredo for vegetarians). The light red sauce came with chunks of tomatoes, ground beef, and a medley of Italian spices that were each distinct yet together were harmonious.

Note that the Bend Brickhouse will reopen in August after they finish renovations to the restaurant.

Tumalo Feed Company Steakhouse in Tumalo

Conveniently located on U.S. Highway 20 between Bend and Sisters, Tumalo Feed Company has that old Cowboy steakhouse feel. A friend and I picked up our dinner and decided to eat al fresco along the Deschutes River in Tumalo. We shared a 12-ounce rib-eye with mashed potatoes and broccoli, and chicken Marsala. The steak was perfectly cooked (I like it medium-rare), and well seasoned with a bit of fat on the edges that added juicy flavor.

The preparation of the chicken Marsala was creamier than most recipes, and there was no aroma or flavor of Marsala wine. Nonetheless, the mushrooms in the sauce were plentiful and fresh, and overall the dish was satisfying. We also ordered beef stroganoff to bring home that was quite tasty. Lots of portabella mushrooms and tender steak tidbits were mixed in with a fettuccini-like pasta.

The Texas toast-sized garlic bread was a reminder of its cowboy roots.

Barney Prine’s Steakhouse and Saloon in Prineville

Barney Prine’s in Prineville is a classic steakhouse that boasts of its extensive fish menu, including razor clams and clam chowder. The clam chowder has consistently been one of the best I’ve ever tasted (as good or better than the chowders I’ve had at fancy restaurants up and down the coast). It’s creamy without being too thick. The clams flavor the soup without being overpowering, with the right balance of other ingredients.

If you call for takeout and get their voicemail, wait a few minutes and call back. Barney Prine’s serves USDA choice grade meat. The medallions of beef caught my eye. Three medallions are served with a few crimini mushrooms on top and a thick Bernaise sauce. I chose the side of red garlic potatoes that were similar to crispy roasted breakfast potatoes. We also decided on the chicken piccata with thick slices of olives and onions. It came with a side of mashed potatoes ( with a choice of brown or white gravy) and tender squash and baby carrots.

Kayo’s Dinner House & LoungeKayo’s has a reputation for its prime rib. Indeed, the 16-ounce cut, which comes with au jus and creamy horseradish, was flavorful. It came with smoked gouda mashers that were perfectly firm yet creamy, with just a hint of gouda, and a good portion of perfectly cooked asparagus. We shared a bowl of clam chowder with hints of bacon, enhancing the clam and other flavors. Crispy baguettes with a soft center and Kayo’s signature salmon mousse spread accompanied the meal.

We also chose a Crab Cake entree. Two large, thick crab patties were made with a generous amount of crab meat. The fried patties were filled with flavor but not with bread fillers.

Takeout still available

While you can dine-in at all of these steakhouses, takeout is also available. Bos Taurus has eliminated the cooked items on its to-go menu, but still offers its butcher shop of raw meat. Each steak comes with spices, butter, and instructions to make the meat as tasty as eating in. The prices are still very reasonable. Kayo’s also is continuing its “protein to go” menu. When ordering at Brickhouse, they suggested undercooking the meat if I would be reheating it when I got home.

The reopening of steakhouses brings us carnivores the feeling that we are moving in the direction of a normal world.