Maillard effect can rescue boring food
Published 12:00 am Tuesday, June 16, 2015
- Jan Roberts-Dominguez / For The BulletinMeat seared in a skillet represents the falvor-enhancing effect of Maillard browning.
Even though you didn’t ask, I’m going to share one of my culinary peeves: cooks who don’t brown their meat thoroughly. Before offering up an eye roll, hear me out. When a recipe calls for browned meat — be it for a taco, stew or pot roast — use a very hot pan and really get in there and brown it. The important first step for developing superior flavor in your finished dish is browning. And I mean thoroughly and lovingly browned on all sides before any other step is taken.
In the food science community, the process is referred to as a nonenzymatic browning reaction. Which means, quite simply, that when amines (a tiny portion of protein molecules) and sugars get all hot and bothered in that skillet, a much richer flavor is achieved. French scientist L.C. Maillard was the first to describe the browning phenomena in 1912, hence the term, “Maillard browning.”
Another way to take advantage of the Maillard browning effect in making stew is by coating the meat with a bit of flour before browning. As flour browns, it also becomes more flavorful from the same process.
Besides creating great tasting tacos and stew, Maillard browning is responsible for numerous other rich-tasting browned coatings and toppings, from baked goods (we all love the top of the muffin, don’t we?) to fried foods (who doesn’t fight over the darker French fries?) to roasts (we equate a rich, dark brown exterior with great taste). And what about that prized, golden-brown, crusty coating that forms atop a casserole of macaroni and cheese?
Because there will still be days throughout summer and early fall when you’ll find yourself hankering for a richer, more robust approach to the evening meal, here are a few recipes that will deliver in spades. And each one is a shining example of just what that wonderful phenomenon, Maillard browning, brings to the table.
— Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis food writer, artist, and author of “Oregon Hazelnut Country, the Food, the Drink, the Spirit” and four other cookbooks. Readers can contact her by email at janrd@proaxis.com or obtain additional recipes and food tips on her blog at www.janrd.com.