For women, workplace winning over red carpet
Published 12:00 am Sunday, February 23, 2014
NEW YORK — The fashion pack weathered two major snowstorms, journeyed to Brooklyn via water taxi, got stuck in elevators, and slipped and fell on a chocolate-drenched runway.
Wait, isn’t New York Fashion Week supposed to be glamorous?
Meteorological mishaps and logistical gripes aside, it was, and the shows that just ended boasted a Dolby Theatre’s worth of celebrities to prove it — including Gwyneth Paltrow, Reese Witherspoon and Diane Kruger at Boss Womenswear, and Jared Leto at Jeremy Scott.
But on the runways, the biggest trend in the collections shown for fall-winter 2014 was a return to real clothes for real women in the grand tradition of modern American sportswear. Rather than designing with the red carpet in mind, designers were making clothes someone over the age of 22 can actually wear to work, including colorful belted cloth coats, statement sweaters, midi-length skirts and culottes made to last a lifetime.
Color, craftsmanship, comfort and joy were some of the words that Joseph Altuzarra used to describe the inspiration for his knockout collection of sportswear in neutral tones enhanced with vivid brights. Among his best pieces were a double-face cashmere wrap coat in navy and cobalt blue, a forest green belted blazer and pencil skirt with splices of magenta color and a body-skimming black silk crepe dress sliced and slit to reveal a hint of skin.
Thakoon Panichgul came up with colorful ways to beat the winter blahs — a pop of floral print revealed on the lining of a parka here, and a blouse with a printed scarf tie dangling outside the back of a sweater or coat there. Colorful knit shoulder cozies and hybrid dickey-scarves were another option for adding a dash of panache, as an alternative to a basic scarf.
At Marc Jacobs, the overriding feeling was lightness and calm. The palette was pale, the prevailing silhouette a futuristic-looking tunic top worn over slim, flared pants with contrast paneling or pocket details. It made for an uncomplicated, and in some ways inherently American, way of dressing.
But the simple chic chemise dresses with celestial-looking beading, or undulating waves of chiffon, were unquestionably beautiful, bringing to mind Georgia O’Keeffe’s paintings of sculptural landscapes, clouds and calla lilies.