Mustards of all styles, colors and flavors from apricot to Zinfandel have become big business. Everybody is getting into the act, in large part, I think, because the prospect of opening pretty little jars that promise such extravagant taste sensations is indeed beguiling.

But have you ever made your own? If your idea for making mustard has thus far consisted of stirring a little bit of water (or wine, or ale, or vinegar) into powdered mustard, then you’re in for a pleasant surprise. Even if you’ve taken that concept a step or so further by adding a sprinkling of herbs or sugar or egg yolks, you have yet to savor what a real homemade mustard can be. You see, I believe in starting with the whole seeds. It’s the only way to achieve the purest, most balanced of mustard flavorings. Otherwise, you’re relying on whatever powdered mustard blend you happen to have purchased. And even if it’s Coleman’s — which most agree is the superior powdered mustard blend on the market — the flavors and textures you can create are limited.

But if you follow my two basic steps, you will have something to brag about. Something worthy of sharing with your most persnickety “gourmets” friends and family members.

Step 1: Soak

First, you will combine the seeds with the liquid and let the mixture sit for two days. This simple step — unlike most of the recipes for homemade mustard that I’ve encountered, but very similar to the process commercial mustard makers follow — makes all the difference. Allowing the seeds time to absorb the liquid, to soften and plump, before adding other ingredients or pureeing in a food processor, makes a creamier and more richly flavored finished product. Depending on the dryness of the seeds — and believe me, they do vary — you’ll notice that your seeds either lap up the liquid very quickly or slowly absorb the liquid over the extended time. It’s something you will need to monitor. Since the idea is to keep the seeds just barely covered with liquid, if you have a thirsty batch of seeds you’ll be adding additional liquid at more frequent intervals, especially during the first 24 hours.

Step 2: Blend

The thoroughly plumped seeds and their liquid are scraped into a food processor at this point so you can puree the mixture to the desired consistency. This is usually the point at which you add any other ingredients, such as shallots, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh herbs or garlic. You may be surprised at how long my recipes instruct you to run the food processor. Generally, you keep the seeds in motion from three to six minutes, which is a long time by most blending standards. But if you’re patient, you’ll see the mixture transform before your eyes from one with defined seeds and liquid to a somewhat creamy and then very creamy mixture. As the seeds’ crispy hulls crack and break, the pulpy centers are thrown into the mixture, where they help thicken and flavor the mustard.

Mustard seeds

Mustard gets its kick from three types of mustard seed: black, brown and white (commonly referred to as “yellow” as the seeds are actually a pale yellow color). The black and brown seeds contribute the familiar “hot” or pungent flavor of mustard. The yellow mustard, although slightly more mild, also contributes its own character, a distinctive mustard flavor.

Commercially available mustard powder is a combination of yellow and black or brown mustard seeds.

For purchasing your whole mustard seeds, keep in mind that you should locate a store that sells them in bulk. Those tiny tins from the spice aisle in your supermarket cost a fortune.

Liquids

When using mustard seeds or powder, the ultimate pungency is achieved with cold water, which facilitates enzymatic formation of the necessary essential oils. Acids, such as vinegar — and to a lesser degree, wine or beer — produce a less favorable environment for the enzyme, and thus, a slightly tamer condiment. But remember, “slightly” is the operative word. These mustard preparations are still potent, even after the flavors have improved and mellowed during the two- to three-week aging process.

I really like using vinegar in my recipes because I feel it helps create a balance of flavors. When making your own mustards, remember there are a plethora of vinegars to play around with. Beyond taste, however, you have to keep your ultimate color in mind. For instance, if you want a light, delicately colored mustard, don’t start with balsamic, malt or red-wine vinegar, or a dark beer or red wine. Any of these ingredients will turn the mustard a dark or murky color.

Also, steer away from boiling-hot liquid. I’ve noticed that subjecting the seeds to temperatures at or near the boiling point tends to make the final product rather bitter or, at the very least, flat. This carries through to the process of cooking with your mustards. The flavor tends to hold better when the mustard is added toward the end of the cooking process.

Storage and food safety

Please store your mustards in the refrigerator. Although it’s hard to imagine any bacterium with half a brain wanting to reproduce in such a fiery potion, food-safety experts caution it is a possibility. So it’s best to store questionable batches in the refrigerator. When this is the case, you should mark your labels “Keep refrigerated.” Of course, most of these mustards will safely survive room temperature during the gift-giving phase or a trip via the U.S. Postal Service.

The mustard book meets Julia Child

In 1994, MacMillan Publishing published my book on making mustard from scratch. It’s titled “The Mustard Book” and contains everything you need to know to produce your own really delicious mustards.

The year after the book was released, I spent 40 precious minutes in a private interview with iconic chef Julia Child. Worried that I’d be tongue-tied, I arrived at the interview with an icebreaker of sorts.

But Julia (“May I call you that?” “Of course.”) was easy to warm up to. She was 85 at that point, keeping up the sort of professional pace that would do in lesser mortals of younger years and sat before me rarin’ to go. Gentle smile and sparkling eyes, she began to talk the moment we sat down. Ever conscious, perhaps, of the precious few moments we all want to have with her.

Still, I opened with my icebreaker …

Me: Before we get started, I wanted to thank you personally for something that you did for me last year.

Julia (in her delightful lilting voice): Ohhhh? What was that?

Me: Well, I had a book come out in the fall, and when you were on “Good Morning America” with Joan Lunden you held it up on air.

Julia: What book was that?

Me: It was “The Mustard Book.”

Julia: Oh I remember that. It was a WONderful little book!

Me: That’s what you said! And I didn’t know you were going to do that, and I started getting calls.

Julia: Well that’s just lovely, Jan.

Sadly, even with Julia’s ringing endorsement, “The Mustard Book” is no longer in print. But the recipes live on.

— Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis food writer, artist, and author of “Oregon Hazelnut Country, the Food, the Drink, the Spirit,” and four other cookbooks. Readers can contact her by email at janrd@proaxis.com.