Pizza paradise
Published 2:38 pm Thursday, December 19, 2013
- A Tuscan pizza at Boston's restaurant in Bend.
Sometimes it’s hard separating fact and fiction. There are plenty of fictions revolving around the origin of Boston’s The Gourmet Pizza, located on U.S. Highway 97 in Bend, just south of the Prime Outlets shopping mall. Here’s the real story:
Myth: Boston’s is a New England-based restaurant chain.
Truth: Boston’s got its start in Edmonton, Alberta, in 1964, and didn’t enter the U.S. market until 1998.
Myth: Boston’s was founded by lifelong Boston Red Sox and Boston Celtics fans.
Truth: Boston’s founder was a Greek immigrant named Gus Agiortis. He called his first restaurant the Boston Pizza and Spaghetti House because he considered “Boston” a recognizable and well-established name.
Myth: Boston’s is basically a pizza house.
Truth: Boston’s is a full-service casual-dining restaurant with a menu that features a variety of salads, sandwiches, pasta dishes and entrees ranging from grilled salmon to sirloin steak. And it incorporates a large sports bar under the same roof.
The Bend restaurant, which opened in November 2008, is the first in Oregon. It’s a bright, spacious spot, seating more than 120 diners in its main restaurant. The lounge, with at least a half-dozen flat-screen TVs ever tuned to sports broadcasts, seats another 80.
Service is excellent, always friendly and willing to go the extra step. Indeed, much of the staff has been at Boston’s for its entire year in Oregon. In all, the Dallas-based company has 50 restaurants in 25 states, and another 250 restaurants across Canada, where Boston’s still maintains its international headquarters.
What to eat
For all its variety, I found Boston’s pizza to be unquestionably the best thing I tasted in two recent visits to the restaurant. The menu presents 21 “masterpieces,” and I wonder if all the crusts and secret-recipe sauces are as perfect as what I sampled.
The soups and salads are excellent, too. But based on my experience, I’m far less enthusiastic about the pastas and entrees.
I came alone for my pizza. On the recommendation of both my server and the restaurant hostess, I tried the Sicilian. An individual pizza ($9.99), sliced into sixths, was almost more than I could eat.
I was instantly impressed by the crust of my pizza. Golden brown and crunchy on the outside, the crust was soft in the middle, indicating that it had been baked quickly in a very hot oven.
The crust was spread with a zingy pomodoro tomato sauce, a corporate recipe. It was topped with spicy Italian meatballs, smoked ham, sliced pepperoni, red onions, green peppers and fresh basil, and finished with melted mozzarella cheese. It may have been the best pizza I’ve had anywhere in Bend.
There’s a tropical chicken pizza on the menu (with bacon, pineapple and creamy Alfredo sauce), a Tuscan pizza (with roasted garlic, spinach, sun-dried tomatoes and feta cheese), an extreme mushroom pizza (with four kinds of ‘shrooms and a house-made mushroom pesto). And, of course, there are classic pepperoni, four-cheese and Hawaiian pizzas for diners who like something a bit more traditional.
Lunch for two
The best things in my lunch with a friend were the salad and soup.
The Caesar was crisp and fresh, with freshly grated Parmesan and croutons. To be sure, it was basic, without anchovies or any other gourmet touch. But the romaine lettuce was very fresh, and the house dressing was tangy and served in just the right portion.
The soup of the day was a puree of freshly grilled vegetables, carrots and red bell peppers among them. I had a cup. I would have been delighted with a full bowl.
But my “create your own pasta” left me flat. Diners are encouraged to choose from several pasta styles (including spaghetti and penne) and couple their choice with one of a half-dozen sauces. I opted for fettuccine with rosemary-chipotle cream sauce.
The fettuccine was cooked perfectly, just past al dente. But there was absolutely nothing to the sauce. The soup was thicker. Only mildly spicy, it had no taste of either rosemary or chipotle. A sprinkle of parsley gave it minimal flavor, and the baked breadstick served with the pasta — starch on starch — had all the appeal of a pre-frozen biscuit.
My friend ordered butterfly shrimp, stuffed with artichoke. It sounded wonderful, but something was lost in translation. Splayed prawns were filled with mashed artichoke hearts, soaked in fontina cheese and baked in a casserole dish. She was left to fish her half-dozen shrimp from a sea of oil — and to be grateful that at least the salad was healthy.
Were I in the mood for pasta or another Italian-style meal, I would probably choose a different restaurant than Boston’s. But for gourmet pizza and an accompanying salad, I would return anytime. You wouldn’t even have to twist my arm.
SMALL BITE
Versante Pizza , for several years a regular participant in Central Oregon street fairs, will open its first permanent restaurant in Bend in the next few weeks. Co-owners David Johnson and Jon Sargent have announced plans to open in the former location of Zydeco Kitchen + Cocktails. An exact date has not yet been determined. Johnson said the menu will feature cornmeal-crust pizzas, submarine sandwiches, pastas and other dishes; the restaurant has applied with the Oregon Liquor Control Commission for a license to serve beer and wine. Versante’s address will be 1085 S.E. Third St., Bend.
RECENT REVIEWS
Pita Pit (B): Perhaps best known for serving healthy food into the wee hours of weekend mornings, this franchise operation also offers budget-priced breakfasts and lunches. Its pita-bread sandwiches are stuffed with a variety of meats and fresh vegetables. Open 9:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Wednesday, 9:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Thursday, 9:30 a.m. to 3 a.m. Friday and Saturday. 806 N.W. Brooks St., Bend; 541-389-7482 or www.pitapitusa .com.
Scoots Bar and Grill (B+): Neither the building nor the menu is glamorous, but the half-pound burgers are some of the best in Central Oregon, and the Texas-style chili will warm you on a cold winter’s day. This is basically a bar, however, that attracts a local clientele. 11 a.m. to close every day. 175 N. Larch St., Sisters; 541-549-1588 or www.scootsbar andgrill.com.
Sage Cafe and Coffee House (A-): Now nearly seven years old, the first business in Bend’s NorthWest Crossing neighborhood is going strong. Atmosphere is pleasant, counter service fast and friendly. Open 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday, 7:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Saturday, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday. 2762 N.W. Crossing Drive, Bend; 541-382-6740.
Boston’s The Gourmet Pizza
Location: 61276 S. U.S. Highway 97, Bend
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Price range: Salads $5.49 to $10.29, pastas $9.79 to $13.99, pizzas $7.99 to $23.99, entrees $11.79 to $21.99
Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Children’s menu: Yes
Vegetarian menu: Numerous choices
Alcoholic beverages: Full bar
Outdoor seating: Covered patio
Reservations: Large groups only
Contact: 541-647-5050 or www.bostons.com
Scorecard
OVERALL: B+
Food: B. Outstanding pizza, fresh salad and soup, but pasta and prawn dishes don’t excite
Service: A. Always friendly and willing to go the extra step
Atmosphere: B. Single large room with adjoining lounge is bright, spacious but lacks intimacy
Value: B+. Pizzas are the best value; most dishes have a moderate price point
Next week: Black Bear Diner
Visit www.bendbulletin.com /restaurants for readers’ ratings of more than 150 Central Oregon restaurants.