Maintaining holiday traditions during a pandemic
Published 10:45 am Wednesday, December 9, 2020
- Applesauce for sweetness and creamy sour cream are the perfect complement to the fried latkes.
Like many of you, I’m disappointed that holiday parties are called off this year. For the past 25 years I’ve had a Hanukkah party. Some were small, some were big, but I never missed a year. Even with health issues last year, my friends rallied to help make it happen. My friends tell me all year how much they look forward to the latkes (potato pancakes), challah bread and brisket. There is no way that I’m going to break the tradition. This year’s party will need to be virtual and socially distanced.
Making your holiday virtual and COVID-19 safe
Gathering outdoors with more than 6 feet between us would have been cold and still slightly risky. I opted for a virtual party that will still give my friends a taste of Hanukkah food.
My level of precaution against spreading COVID-19 is set particularly high. My friends should feel comfortable about eating the food. All of the food was bought via Instacart from Costco and Smart Foodservice, or in-car delivery at Safeway and Whole Foods. I’ve bleached my kitchen and haven’t seen anyone outside the home for five days. And I’ve taken a COVID test. The results of which should be available two days before my party date. Even though I’m cooking at home, I will wear a mask and gloves for some food prep.
Each of my guests will pick up a bag of food from my porch starting early afternoon. The brisket and potato pancakes will be made in the morning. Bread loaves will be started the day before as I make five loaves. I bought reusable to-go containers. Brisket will go on one side, pancakes on the other. To top the latkes, small pouches of applesauce from Costco will go in the bag along with sour cream containers and horseradish for the meat. A baggie with a chunk of bread will also be included (Challah is torn, not cut). Another friend is getting chocolate “gelt” —gold-covered coins — to go in each bag.
At 5 p.m., we will gather for a Zoom call. As in past years, for those who don’t know Hanukkah’s story, I will tell it before lighting the candles on the menorah. Other Jewish families can pull out their menorahs and join in saying prayers and lighting menorahs over the video call. Then we will eat and chat on Zoom. Afterward, those who want can play a silly game on Jackbox.
It won’t be the same wonderful conversations and making new friends as when people have milled around the house. I won’t have to find chairs, put away the laundry, or wash dishes on the plus side.
The story of Hanukkah or ‘What’s with all the oil?’
In past years, I used the dinner to teach others about the story of Hanukkah and why I love this holiday so much (no, it’s not because we get eight presents). Hanukkah is a celebration of religious freedom and in living our life following our beliefs. As part of the old testament, there is no reason Christians can’t celebrate the miracles of Hanukkah, too.
The first miracle happened as a small group of people—farmers, sheepherders, merchants, and teachers—defeated a mighty army. Led by King Antiochus; the Syrians overtook Judea forcing the people to pray to their idols and adopt their culture. They desecrated synagogues. While many acquiesced, a small community of people fought for their right to worship as they believed. Judah Macabee led the makeshift community army in defeating the Syrian troops.
When the people returned to their temple, it had been torn apart. It was filthy with animal blood and droppings, ashes. The Maccabees cleaned up the synagogue but when they went to light the eternal flame, they found that they only had enough oil for one day.
It would be a while until they could get supplies and, once lit, the eternal flame shouldn’t die. The second miracle was that the oil lasted through 8 days. They celebrated their victory for freedom, and the flame never went out. The eight candle menorah represents the eight days the oil lasted. A candle is added each day, and a ninth candle is used to light the others.
It’s all about the oil. Hanukkah dinner food is cooked in lots of oil to commemorate the oil that fueled the lamp in the temple. Potato pancakes are fried. It’s traditional to serve donuts as well.
The menu
Each year I provide slow-cooked brisket, homemade challah bread, and the star of the show—latkes (fried potato pancakes). My recipes were passed down from my grandmother and mother. In the first years of my Hanukkah party, I learned from my mother. Much of it was “eyeballing” it to know how much of each ingredient to use.
After cooking, my house has a distinct smell of onion and oil. If you want to attempt it, know that your counters and floor will likely be covered in oil.
Potato pancakes cook best in an electric frying pan. You’ll also need a food processor for my recipe. To make large batches, consider getting an electric “Rotato” to peel the potatoes. If I were to guess, I use about a pound of potatoes per person. Two medium-sized onions and two eggs added to the potatoes makes the pile of latkes in the picture.
The secret to my pancakes is that I use a Cuisinart rather than grating potatoes. Grated pancakes taste like hash browns to me. Start by peeling potatoes. Cut them into chunks and drop in a big bowl of cold water to reduce browning. Heat the electric frying pan to 400 degrees. Add vegetable oil to barely cover the bottom.
While it’s heating up, I chop onions into big chunks. Add chunks of onion and potato to the food processor with a rotating blade. Process for a few seconds until the mixture has no large chunks but not so long that you have creamy mashed potatoes. The texture is key.
Pour the mixture into a large bowl. Once you have about half the bowl filled, mix in an egg and salt generously. It’s often useful to run your hand through the bowl to grab out any chunks that didn’t get processed. Most people add flour (including my mother), but I have friends who are gluten-free. Instead, I frequently drain off the liquid that accumulates at the top of the mixture. I use a ladle to drop the potatoes into the hot oil. I put the frying pan top on with the vents open; otherwise, the potato moisture will make the oil splatter worse. When the edges of a pancake are brown, I flip it. When they are cooked, I place them on a double layer of paper towel to absorb the grease.
Serve potato pancakes with applesauce and sour cream.
The brisket is easy to make in a slow cooker. After trimming the fat, I add fresh garlic, onions, salt and pepper, ketchup, and then fill the pot with Cola until it covers the meat. (Note, I would never use a diet cola.)
It’s slow-cooked on the automatic setting that starts high then goes low or for about five hours on low. This is the cooking time for seven pounds of meat so you might want to adjust for smaller cuts. Cut against the grain and serve with a bit of the “au jus” and horseradish.
Challah is a braided bread. Most Hanukkah parties require four or five loaves of the labor-intensive bread, so I start making it the day before.
I do cheat by having a bread machine knead the dough. When the dough is ready, I separate it into three pieces and let it rise. The next step is to braid the pieces and let it rise again. It’s my grandmother’s secret recipe, so all I can tell you is that it’s very egg-heavy and sweeter than some commercial challah bread.
Thank you for letting me share this holiday tradition with you. May you find ways to connect with loved ones and make your holidays bright.