There’s been a lot of buzz on social media about Xalisco Latin Cuisine since it opened in Redmond this May. Before I went there, the social media photos of beautifully plated Mexican dishes hinted that this was not your typical enchilada and taco eatery. After visiting Xalisco, it’s clear that the restaurant deserves all the accolades.

It’s been a horrible time for restaurants due to COVID-19, but there have been some silver linings. Xalisco might not have been here if Lupe Medina hadn’t lost her job in Southern California. She came to Central Oregon to open a restaurant with her brother, Evaristo Medina, and sister, Angeles Medina. Angeles’ son, Chef Angel Buenrostro Medina, developed the menu at another Redmond restaurant owned by the family — Carnaval Mexican Grill, located on Sixth Street. Since joining Xalisco, Angel’s skills from culinary school in Guadalajara have been unleashed. Here he can showcase his ability to combine Latin flavors subtly and present them beautifully.

The restaurant is at the corner of a strip mall as you exit U.S. Highway 97, heading toward the Redmond airport. There is a small area to eat outside. Inside is clean and modern, with a bar and open kitchen. As we stepped in for dinner, we could smell the scent of bacon filling the dining room.

From an extensive, two-page menu that includes everything from tacos and hamburgers to exquisite seafood dishes, the pulpa (octopus) caught my eye. Octopus can be very good or bad — either it’s tender and sweet, rivaling the best shellfish, or it’s rubbery and bland. The server reassured me that the chef knew how to make it. While it wasn’t as fabulous as fresh octopus caught that day, it was tender and delicious, with a light hand of chili oil and spices. It was served with lightly oiled and grilled tomato and zucchini slices that were a lovely appetizer in their own right.

We chose a meat dish and a seafood dish for our entrees. In the Costillas En Salsa de Tamarindo, a tall pile of smoked short ribs was coated in a tamarind barbecue sauce for the perfect balance of tart and an orange-like sweetness. From the first bite, my taste buds were in heaven. The bacon was used in the side of potatoes that comes with many of the entrees. Crunchy, creamy and filled with bacon flavor, they were a fine accompaniment. The short ribs also came with coleslaw, which was more like a small salad. The creamy mayonnaise dressing covered shredded cabbage, and kale sprinkled with kernels of lightly grilled baby corn. It was the perfect, cool complement to the thick rib sauce.

The spicy hibiscus shrimp was spicy enough for good flavor but not to burn the tongue. Dipping the large, perfectly cooked sweet prawns into the hibiscus sauce (also called Jamaica sauce) adds sweet and sour to the juicy shellfish in a burst of harmonized flavors. It came with the bacon potatoes and uninteresting steamed vegetables. No matter; the lightly buttered zucchini, carrots and asparagus came alive in the hibiscus sauce.

Xalisco has a choice of desserts. Our server recommended the crepe. It was a good call, as the Crepas de Plátano y Nuez was one of the best crepes I’ve ever eaten. Despite its sweetness, it was light and not too filling. The crepe was fluffy and eggy, with lightly crisped edges. Inside was creamy, covered in a light dusting of cinnamon sugar and pecans. Caramelized bananas and a scoop of ice cream were drizzled with dulce de leche (caramelized milk), giving it a wonderfully light caramel touch.

My friend texted me that she was still “swooning from dinner” hours later.

Brunch outing

When another friend and I returned for an early lunch, I wanted brunch. Because Chilaquiles can be served with eggs, it is often eaten at breakfast or lunch. The house-made tortilla chips in the Chilaquiles Tradicionales Verdes/Rojos are mixed in your choice of green or red sauce and served with refried beans. Again, from the first bite, it was clear that this was something special and the best Chilaquiles I’ve ever had. It’s topped with cotija cheese, chopped cilantro, crema, half of a fresh avocado and onions.

Angel explained that the sauce is made from scratch. Grilled tomatoes and garlic are mixed with pasilla chili, chili verde, and chipotle. Even with all the chili, it was still not too spicy. The refried beans, however, were a disappointment. Although they had good flavor, they were a bit watery. Lupe explained that it was probably just the day’s batch; if the beans become too thick, they sometimes add water.

I ordered more tortillas to scoop up the beans. The server let me know it would be a few minutes as the tortillas are made to order. On our first visit, the tortillas were made with chili and orange. For lunch, they were green as they were made with spinach and cilantro. The palm-sized tortillas are served with salsa instead of tortilla chips.

We shared the tuna tostadas. Three small, crispy house-made tortillas were piled with tuna ceviche — raw tuna, red onion, chunks of avocado and sprinkled with cilantro — that had been “cooked” in a lime marinade. The fresh ingredients and big chunks of tuna would have shined if it hadn’t been so heavy on the lime.

My friend opted for the vegan portobello “burger” made with a large, marinated and grilled portabello mushroom. Its buttery-smoky flavor was enhanced by fresh baby spinach, onion, avocado and tomato on a firm bun. The chipotle mayo added to the smoky flavor. It had good meaty mouthfeel and taste, and came served with thick French fry wedges.

We finished with flan. The formed custard was crunchy on the bottom, combined with caramel drizzle to flavor the eggy mixture. The caramel sauce was thick, yet not overpowering or gooey.

If you are looking for a culinary treat of Latin food, you’ll find it at Xalisco. Almost every dish was a delight. I’m looking forward to returning to discover what other items will be a treasure for my taste buds.

What: Xalisco Latin Cuisine

Where: 3835 SW 21st Place, Redmond

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Wednesday-Monday (Closed Tuesdays)

Contact: facebook.com/Xaliscolc or 541-923-3943