April is the month I start re-reading the entries in my garden journal from the previous year. I like comparing notes. It also gives me ammunition when gardeners claim annually that “this is the worst year ever.”

Last year on April 1, the temperature was 75 degrees. On April 2, the temperature had dipped to 45 degrees. My forsythia started blooming on April 9, but the daffodils that usually start blooming a week following the forsythia had been consumed by some critter who didn’t bother to leave any sort of calling card.

Reading further into the journal, I noted that we had snow flurries on April 29, and three guesses as to what we had on Mother’s Day in May.

These are some of the reinforcing reasons why we don’t get serious about planting vegetables and annuals outdoors until much later.

What we can do to satisfy that dig-in-the-dirt urge is to start seeds indoors.

There are many reasons to start your own seeds. Variety selection is a major advantage. Choosing the correct variety for our climate helps ensure success.

The listed maturity date on the seed packet or in the catalog should fall between 65 and 75 days. To compensate for the temperature swing of warm days and cool nights during the summer, add 14 days, which will bring the maturity date up to approximately 90 days. Choosing a tomato with a maturity time of 100 days, then adding the 14 days would make that variety unsuccessful unless you created an environment that would maintain a higher, more consistent temperature. Our cool soil temperatures are not conducive to the germination of the direct seeding of warm-weather vegetables and flowers.

In addition to the advantage of variety, economy is a factor. Think of all the seeds in a packet usually costing less than one potted plant at a garden center. My philosophy is to save my garden budget for the irresistible perennials I can’t live without.

Starting off

Seeds should be started in a good-quality seed starting mix, not potting soil or garden soil, both of which are too heavy. There is a plethora of seed-starting equipment available at garden centers. You can also recycle plastic “clamshell” containers, or other plastic discards. Whatever you use must have drainage holes. I use a nail to punch out a series of holes to provide proper drainage. If you use black plastic nursery trays or containers that have been in storage, clean them using a 10 percent bleach solution.

Like following a recipe, you need to follow the directions on the back of the seed packet as to planting depth and germination temperature.

The seeding mix needs to be pre-moistened before planting, either by setting your container in the sink filled with a few inches of water or a pan filled with several inches of water. The water will draw up into the container, which is an easier method to saturate the soil and more efficient than surface watering.

Planting

Plant the seeds according to the depth listed on the seed packet. Some seeds do not require a covering, so resist the temptation to provide a cozy, dark home. Although you have pre-moistened the mix, it is important that you gently mist the seeds to help them settle in. Cover the container with a plastic dome or plastic wrap and set in a warm place. Don’t keep the containers in the windowsill during germination; the cold air at night will affect the process.

The most favorable germination temperatures are in the range of 75 to 90 degrees, which is the soil temperature, not the air temperature. Possibilities include placing the container near, but not on, a floor register, the top of the refrigerator or water heater, or the hearth of a gas fireplace that is used daily. Or you might want to consider investing in heat mats available at garden centers for that purpose.

Monitor the moisture level daily. The mix should feel damp but not soggy. Once the seeds have started to germinate, remove any covering and move to a high-light area, either from fluorescent grow lights or from the sun.

At this point, the light is more critical than the temperature. Grow lights or a fluorescent shop light suspended from chains with cup hooks so the lights can be moved up as the plants grow would be the best solution. The light should be suspended just 1 to 2 inches above the seedlings and then moved up as the seedlings grow, keeping it just a few inches above the tops of the plants. Artificial lights are usually left on 12 to 16 hours a day.

The first set of leaves are the rounded cotyledon leaves, followed by the true leaves that make the plant’s variety recognizable. This is the time when you could start fertilizing with a very weak water-soluble fertilizer. Seedlings should only receive half-strength rather than full-strength fertilizer.

Potential issues

The most common and discouraging problem occurring in indoor seed starting is called dampening off. Everything is going along fine, and then one day you discover the seedlings starting to topple over right at soil level. In most cases, it is caused by our generosity with watering, and poor air circulation.

To help ward off this condition, make sure the soil level is high enough so as not to create a cavern of dead air space. The seedlings need to have a good air circulation, and always check for the need to water. Recommendations are to either place a small fan close by to create air circulation or to physically fan the area several times a day. Most of us aren’t lucky enough to possess a hand-held fan. A square of cardboard cut from a cereal box will do just fine. There is no cure for dampening off, and the seeds will not resprout.

Ready for outside?

Hardening off is the term used to introduce tender seedlings into the cool, cruel world before they are actually planted in their permanent home. The process starts about a week before setting them out by cutting back on watering. Don’t fertilize them for the last week they are indoors. To start, set them outside in a protected area that receives filtered sun for a few hours a day. Gradually increase the amount of sun and the time spent outdoors for a week to 10 days. Make sure to continue to monitor the watering, as they will dry out more quickly outdoors.

Choose a cloudy day or early in the day to transplant the seedlings to the garden. The planting should be done before the heat of the sun and the wind can cause damage. Irrigate the garden several days before planting so the soil is moist and then gently water after planting.

Make sure you label your containers the first day you do the seeding, and carry that label to the planting area in the garden. Start a garden journal listing variety, where you purchased the seed and the planting schedule. I can’t tell you how many times gardeners have complained about failures and I have asked what variety they planted. They answer with “I have no idea.” Could be they started out with the wrong variety — just food for thought. If you don’t want to have a journal record, at least put the seed packets in a plastic Ziploc bag for reference next year.

Veggie options

These are some of Liz Douville’s personal favorite warm-weather veggies to start indoors.

• Any of the OSU-developed tomatoes: Legend, Oregon Spring, Gold Nugget and Willamette

• Beans: Straight & Narrow, Nickel, Maxibel

• Corn: Early Sunglow, Bodacious

• Cucumber: Diva, Lemon

• Parsley: Flat-leaf is best for drying

• Pepper (sweet): North Star, Golden Star

— Liz Douville