Restaurant review: Vine-n-Tap

Published 3:00 am Thursday, October 22, 2020

Vine-n-Tap may have started with the idea of being a great gathering place for those who love good wine and beer, but days after they opened, the pandemic shutdown squelched their plans. Instead, the restaurant gained a following by offering good food for takeout until they could open their large courtyard in May. It turns out that Vine-n-Tap is so much more than drinks. It’s a “scratch to fork” eatery that offers fresh food with mostly housemade dressing and condiments. Chef Jennifer West is the star behind the farm-to-table menu at Vine-n-Tap. She spent many years in Utah, creating small plate dishes from locally grown produce. Some of the produce West grew herself. Originally from Medford, West was happy to find a venue that could use her “natural” food talents that is closer to her family.

The restaurant is at the north end of 7th street in Redmond. A fenced-in garden courtyard is available for good weather days. A natural wood interior still looks brand new with decorations that give the nod to its wine and beer offerings. There is room for social distancing to bring diners inside once the winter weather hits Central Oregon.

My introduction to Vine-n-Tap was when I was in search of the best salads in Central Oregon. The kale salad at Vine-n-Tap was a top contender. Tender Russian Kale from local farms was tossed in molasses and cider vinaigrette to counteract the bitter Kale tendencies. Beets and sweet potatoes added more sweetness. Sunflower seeds and the creative Chef’s touch of adding crunchy wheat berries give a nutty flavor.

It’s the creative combinations Chef West adds to the fresh ingredients that bring out the best flavors through harmony and contrast.

During a recent visit, I focused on the sandwiches and sides. Each proved to be tastier than the next. While I loved the sauces’ slathering on the sandwiches, my son felt it was a bit heavy-handed. If you get overwhelmed by rich food, it would be a good idea to ask the kitchen to go light on the sauce. Still, be sure to ask for some on the side and add more to suit your taste.

The Mushroom Melt is a vegetarian take on a patty melt. It starts with buttered and grilled Big Ed’s seeded bread. Meaty portobello, crimini, button and shiitake mushrooms are sauted with caramelized onions in butter. A generous slathering of cream cheese Worcestershire sauce cut the rich mushroom medley. The oozing sauce tastes like a French onion dip with a biting creaminess. Lettuce brings freshness to all the creamy, buttery rich flavors.

The perfect fried chicken is crunchy on the outside, surrounding juicy tender chicken with each bite. Vine-n-Tap’s Fried Chicken sandwich may be one of the best in Central Oregon. It starts with juicy thigh meat that is soaked in batter and fried. Pepperoncini vinaigrette slaw and roasted garlic and malt vinegar mayo with just a kick of chili contrast the generous helping of deep fried chicken. All set on a Big Ed’s potato bun.

It is the condiments that make the double cheeseburger delicious. The meat patties were juicy without being drippy or messy. The kitchen layers paper-thin cut onions and melted white American cheese on the meat between a sesame bun with just a hint of sweetness. But the devil is in the details. What makes this cheeseburger stand out is that the condiments are made from scratch. Chef West pickles fresh baby cucumbers in house. The pickling spices are then used in the mayo ketchup sauce. This sauce was as close as I’ve tasted to the much-beloved In-n-Out Burger dressing that has its cult following that is spreading through Oregon.

While the Shaved Brassica—kale, cauliflower, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts— are tossed with toasted pecans and parmesan. The nuttiness and biting cheese balance any bitterness typical of kale and Brussels sprouts. Lemon vinaigrette that dressed the vegetables was a little too sour for my taste.

Crispy Potatoes live up to their name with a crunchy exterior and creamy potatoes inside. The potatoes are tossed in a curry aioli, which had that typical yellow-curry flavor. Still, after a bite or two of the potatoes with fresh peas, all smothered in the curry sauce, I realized it was addictive.

Vine-n-Tap is good enough that I find myself making excuses to go to Redmond to grab some food. It’s certainly an excellent stop to refuel after a vigorous hike at Cline Falls or Smith Rock State Park.

546 NW 7th St. 

Redmond, OR

(541) 527-6958

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