Schiacciata con l’uva, a rustic, focaccialike flatbread enriched with olive oil and studded with grapes, is the kind of harvest snack traditionally baked in Tuscany when the wine grapes are inky purple on the vines and the people hungry in the fields.

I’ve experienced only American iterations (usually just called focaccia, though they’re much sweeter), made either with our native wine grape, the Concord, or with sweet seedless red grapes. If I hadn’t had a focaccia made with Concord grapes, I’d probably be perfectly happy with the red seedless. But I have, so I’m not.

The Concords, with their musky, spicy skins, condense into intense jammy mouthfuls all over the savory, oily, rosemary-flecked bread. The seedless grapes bake up sweet, juicy and tasty, but not nearly as complex or seductive.

The only problem with Concord grapes is that they need to be seeded, while the seedless ones can simply be strewn over the dough.

And if you’ve never seeded a Concord grape, I can tell you, it’s tedious work. It’s much more persnickety than cherry pitting, and there’s no tool other than fingers and a paring knife to help you through it (your favorite toe-tapping music helps). Even worse, each grape contains more than just one slippery little seed — two or three are the norm, imprisoned in a mucilaginous sac.

Once, after an Italian friend said his mother never seeded the grapes for schiacciata, I tried leaving the Concords intact. Italian wine grapes must have smaller, less tannic seeds because my focaccia was inedible.

Another time, after spotting a hybrid seedless grape variety called a Thomcord, I was sure my grape problems were solved. But alas, despite the promisingly purple, Concord-like skin, the flavor was only marginally deeper than the usual red seedless.

This year, I tried some of the less seedy but more interesting grape varieties available at the farmers’ market, including Niagara, Canadice and Himrod.

I scattered them all over the moist dough (which I spiked with a little cornmeal for crunch) before sprinkling on sugar, rosemary and a slick of olive oil. The focaccia baked up beautifully, the golden surface encrusted with multicolored grapes like autumnal jewels. It wasn’t quite as jammy as the Concord version, but definitely spicier and more fragrant than what the usual seedless grapes produce.

It was a happy compromise in this grape-happy season.

Schiacciata con l’uva, a rustic, focaccialike flatbread enriched with olive oil and studded with grapes, is the kind of harvest snack traditionally baked in Tuscany when the wine grapes are inky purple on the vines and the people hungry in the fields.

I’ve experienced only American iterations (usually just called focaccia, though they’re much sweeter), made either with our native wine grape, the Concord, or with sweet seedless red grapes.

The Concords, with their musky, spicy skins, condense into intense jammy mouthfuls all over the savory, oily, rosemary-flecked bread. The seedless grapes bake up sweet, juicy and tasty, but not nearly as complex or seductive.

Grape Focaccia

Makes 6 to 8 servings

6 TBS extra virgin olive oil, more for drizzling

1 TBS, plus 1 tsp, fresh rosemary leaves

2 tsp active dry yeast

12⁄3 C all-purpose flour, more as needed

2⁄3 C fine cornmeal

5 TBS granulated sugar

11⁄2 tsp salt

21⁄4 C Concord, black or red grapes

1⁄2 C pine nuts, optional

Flaky sea salt, for sprinkling

In a small skillet over medium heat, warm the oil. Stir in 1 tablespoon rosemary leaves. Remove the pan from the heat and let it cool.

Place 3⁄4 cup lukewarm water in a large bowl. Sprinkle the yeast over it. Let it stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.

Stir in the olive oil mixture, 12⁄3 cups flour, cornmeal, 3 tablespoons sugar, and salt to the yeast mixture. Stir until a soft dough forms.

Turn the dough out onto a floured surface. Knead until it is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes, or knead in a stand mixer with a dough hook attached, for about 5 minutes. If using the stand mixer, finish the dough by hand, on a floured surface, for 1 minute. Add more flour; it could need as much as another 1⁄4 cup if the dough feels very sticky (you want damp but not unworkable dough).

Oil a large bowl. Place the dough in the bowl, and turn to coat it lightly with the oil. Cover the bowl with a dish towel. Place the bowl in a warm place, and let it rise until the dough has doubled, about 1 hour.

Halve the grapes if they are large. If using Concord, seed them.

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Oil a large cookie sheet or baking pan (11-by-17-inch) with some olive oil.

Punch down the dough, then pat it into the pan, stretching into an oval about 3⁄8- to 1⁄2-inch thick — it should not fill the entire pan. Dimple the dough with your fingertips. Scatter the grapes and pine nuts, if using, over the dough, pressing them in lightly. Sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon rosemary, and flaky sea salt over the grapes. Drizzle all over with plenty of oil. Bake until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes.