Where can you find the best seafood meals in Bend?

Some food lovers would tell you it’s High Tides. Others might say Anthony’s, or perhaps McGrath’s or Roszak’s or Baltazar’s.

Here’s another cafe to consider: the Bend Fish Company.

Of all the local seafood restaurants, Bend Fish is the only one that doubles as a fish market. In the large display case that divides the kitchen from the dining area, shoppers are enticed by a couple of dozen varieties of fresh fish and shellfish, and diners get a glimpse at the meal that awaits them.

Owner Mike West opened the informal market-cafe in November 2005 on Revere Avenue in northeast Bend. Those who have discovered the establishment vouch for the freshness of the fish and the delicious preparations.

In July, the restaurant added a stainless-steel sushi bar to further enhance its appeal to local diners. And while the menu of nigiri (wrapped with rice and seaweed), gourmet rolls and sashimi (sliced raw fish) hasn’t yet attracted the crowds drawn to other area sushi bars, the freshness of its fare may soon do so.

Fish and chips

Fish and chips are a specialty of Bend Fish Company. The cafe offers a lot of options. You can choose not only your fish — cod, halibut, salmon, catfish or Pacific wahoo (mackerel), as well as shrimp, oysters or razor clams — but also style of tartar sauce and cole slaw.

Fish and chips orders come with a choice of two tartars and one slaw. There are eight tartars, including some you’d expect (traditional, horseradish-cocktail) and some you’d never imagine (Cajun with shrimp and Tabasco, Bombay with yellow curry and raisins, rasta with coconut and rum, Sicilian with garlic and sun-dried tomatoes). The three slaw choices are peanut-coconut, honey-poppyseed and cilantro-lime.

I ordered the wahoo, which is also known as ono in Hawaiian waters. Three medium-size filets were breaded and deep-fried to a crispy consistency; the fish was very good. I thought there were far too many hand-cut French fries on the plate, but other diners might appreciate that.

I enjoyed the Cabo tartar, spiced with tequila, jalapeño peppers and lime. I thought the Tokyo tartar, with wasabi, soy, pickled ginger and cucumber, was only so-so. The cilantro-lime slaw was too dry for my taste; in the past, I recall enjoying the honey-poppyseed slaw instead.

On the spicy side

On another occasion, a friend and I ordered a crab Louis and an enchilada del mar. Both were excellent. In the Louis, a generous amount of fresh crab, including ample claw meat, was layered on a bed of crisp romaine lettuce with tomato wedges, cucumber slices and croutons. The creamy salad dressing, a variation of Thousand Island, was presented in a cup on the side; it had a little more zing to it than many dressings.

In fact, Bend Fish may err on the spicy side in many of its preparations. That’s fine with me, but not everyone appreciates such zesty flavors. Diners who don’t may want to give the kitchen staff a heads-up with their orders.

My enchilada del mar, a classic Baja-style presentation, was a case in point. White fish and bay shrimp were rolled with shredded cabbage and cilantro in a corn tortilla, then topped with crumbled cotija cheese, two salsas and a jalapeño cream sauce.

The mildest of the three sauces was a chunky tomato pico de gallo. The salsa verde, a green sauce, had a real edge to it, and the jalapeño sauce was self-descriptive. I found it delicious, but I like spicy food. Spanish rice and frijoles negros (refried black beans) accompanied.

Creative entrees

Each day, Bend Fish Company offers several special entrees, typically priced at $13.95. The day I went for dinner, I had a choice of four, including: grilled Chinook salmon with a strawberry-balsamic sauce, escolar with a hickory barbecue sauce, and Mexican marlin glazed with chipotle and lime.

My choice was swordfish. It was crusted in poppy seeds and grilled medium-well, then served on a bed of stir-fried noodles and vegetables (bell peppers, carrots and cabbage). A spicy coconut-lime curry cream sauce gave it a Thai-style flair. Although the noodles were overdone and pasty, the dish as a whole was a huge success, especially for the price.

Counter service at the Bend Fish Company is friendly and no-nonsense. But make no mistake: the cafe is casual with a capital C. Indeed, my major complaint is about the lack of attention given to the dining area.

Cleaning up

At Bend Fish, you place your order at the cash register and wait for your name to be called when your plate is ready. Soft drinks, plastic cutlery, napkins and condiments are stocked on a designated counter. There are no waiters; diners are expected to bus their own tables.

That’s all fine and dandy, but not every diner is fastidious. On two of my recent visits, unattended tables — both inside and on a relaxed patio — were askew, half-empty drink glasses and spills on their surfaces. Not a single employee ventured out from the kitchen or service area to clean up the messes left by departed customers.

This reflects negatively on the restaurant as a whole; no matter how fresh the fish may be, I’m not comfortable dining in a sloppy space. It wouldn’t take a lot of effort for an employee to make the rounds of the cafe tables every few minutes.

My recommendation: Call ahead for takeout. Service is speedy, and if you give the staff 10 minutes, they’ll have a delicious food order waiting for you.

RECENT REVIEWS

Bella Cucina Italian Cafe (B): Service is casual but not always prompt at these two indoor-outdoor cafes, which serve reasonably priced pastas and pizzas, breakfasts and a handful of dinner entrees. Food preparation is inconsistent but pasta Milano and clam linguine are worth returning for. 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day. 450 S.W. Powerhouse Dr., Suite 400 (Shops at the Old Mill District), Bend; 385-7774. Also in Sunriver Village Mall, Building 4, Sunriver; 541-593-6440.

Brickhouse Steak and Raw Bar (A-): Named for the handsome brick walls and arches of the historic building it has taken over, downtown Redmond’s finest restaurant offers top-quality beef, fresh, wild-caught seafood and knowledgeable service. A wonderful caprese salad is a good way to work into the exquisite steak menu. Open 4 p.m. to close Tuesday to Saturday. 412 S.W. Sixth St., Redmond; 541-526-1782, www.brickhouseredmond.com.

Big Island Kona Mix Plate (B+): A transplant from the island of Hawaii, this casual and friendly restaurant offers island flavor in its traditional plate lunches from the first “aloha.” Chicken and beef dishes, including Korean-style bulgogi, are tender and tasty, although deep-fried seafood can be heavy-handed. Open 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday. 61470 S. Hwy. 97 (Reed Lane Plaza), Bend; 541-633-7368, www.konamixplate.com.

Bend Fish Company

Location: 212 N.E. Revere Ave., Bend

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Price range: Most plates $5.95 to $9.95; entrees $13.95

Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Children’s menu: Yes

Alcoholic beverages: Wine and beer

Reservations: Not accepted

Contact: 541-330-6131

Scorecard

OVERALL: B+

Food: A-. Food is delicious and recipes creative, if often on the spicy side.

Service: B. Friendly, no-nonsense counter service. I recommend takeout.

Atmosphere: C-. Insufficient attention is given to maintaining the dining area.

Value: A. Prices remain highly reasonable in spite of increasing costs.